An introduction to 3D printing in watchmaking
Due to my fascination with watchmaking I am always interested in new methods of manufacture. Whilst designing a watch I was making for myself, I came up with a plan for a custom dial surround. The part needed to be exactly sized with precise hour markers which would be awkward to manufacture with precision using a watchmakers’ lathe. During a chance conversation with a friend, 3D printing was suggested as a possible solution. Apart from achieving the desired watch part, this would also make a fascinating research project where I could really look at the potential for 3D printing in bespoke watchmaking.
The original watch, before the dial surround was designed.
I was put in contact with the very talented 3D printing team at Cardiff University and its PARC research centre who successfully and accurately produced the required dial surround to my exact specifications. You can view the Cardiff University press release here.
Now fitted with a 3D printed plastic prototype to check dimensions and get an approximate guide to the look before committing to the expensive metal printed article.
The final 3D printed metal dial surround fitted, manufactured with 316L steel. As it’s printed with a succession of tiny printed metal particles the finished surface has a rough, matte texture to it.
The (almost) finished article. After a bit of post processing to achieve a polished finish followed by the addition of some luminous compound and the dial surround is pretty much finished. It still requires a little more polishing to make perfect but that can be done at a later date.
The original watch dial was stripped, repainted, and the logo and new polished steel indices applied. The white date wheel was changed for a black one to better match the new dial and the hands had the original luminous compound removed and I re-applied some that you can actually see in the dark.
The ETA 2824-2 movement, now fitted with a custom gilt rotor.
We’re proud to say that this project was presented at the G7 summit in La Malbaie, Quebec, Canada and the Ipsera Conference in Athens in 2018 as an example of 3D printing technology and its potential for use in Product Life Cycle Extension and the ‘circular economy’.
The results of this experiment with 3D printing have been excellent and have set my imagination alight with a plethora of watchmaking ideas. Exciting developments in 3D printing allow for unique parts to be created with bespoke designs that are very difficult to replicate using conventional watchmaking methods. This is just the beginning of our company’s study of 3D printed watch parts. Watch this space.
ETA/Valjoux 7750 mechanical chronograph
I fancied making a high end chronograph (in fact I fancy making a few) and this is my first attempt. It’s based on the popular high end ETA7750 utilised by many major brands including Breitling, IWC, Oris, Sinn and Porsche among many others. I used the higher quality ‘Top’ grade 7750 with Incabloc shock protection and Glucydur balance.
The watch features highly scratch resistant sapphire crystals front and back, with the one on the rear engraved on the inside of the glass. The side of the case has been engraved and a TAG Heuer style clasp has been modified for the high quality, contrast stitched leather strap.
The 316L stainless steel watch case features a screw down crown, an internal diving bezel and is 200 metres water resistant. The movement’s original steel rotor has been swapped for a black ion plated, decorative rotor allowing for greater visibility of the movement.
6497 style Pilots’ watch project
This watch started as an experimental piece and ended up becoming a gift for my father. The original watch case was made with high quality materials but was poorly finished so it was stripped down and re-finished with professionally rounded corners and a new dual matte/polished design.
Sapphire crystal glass refit in the front and upgraded to sapphire crystal from mineral crystal in the large exhibition case back to display a Swiss ETA 6497 mechanically wound movement, because it’s a shame not to.
I’m very happy with the finished product and the quality of it is superb. I fit a nice heavy, riveted leather strap for a premium feel and had the side of the case hand engraved to personalise it.
6497 style Skeleton watch
This watch I made for a very good customer, which is not a service we generally offer. I was given a general idea of what he wanted to achieve and used that information to design and build the watch before personalising it to his requirements.
I absolutely loved the end result and having never owned a skeleton watch before I now have a couple of designs I’ve put together for a similar watch I’d like to build for myself.
